How to Measure for an Unstitched Suit: The Complete Size Guide

The advantage of unstitched suits is custom fit. The risk is that you have to know your measurements and brief your tailor properly. Off-by-half-inch errors in three or four places add up to a suit that doesn't quite work. This guide is how to measure yourself accurately and what to ask your tailor.

What you need

• A flexible measuring tape (cloth tape, not metal).
• A friend to help — self-measurement is unreliable for some dimensions.
• Snug-fitting innerwear and a thin top.
• Pen, paper, your phone camera (record measurements as you go).
• 10 minutes.

The 9 measurements every tailor needs

1. Bust (around)

Wrap tape around the fullest part of the bust. Tape should be parallel to floor, not slanted. Breathe normally — don't suck in or expand. Take note.

2. Underbust (around)

Wrap tape just under the bust, around the rib cage. Critical for fitting a princess-seam kurta or fitted Anarkali.

3. Waist (around)

Around the narrowest point of your torso, typically about an inch above the navel.

4. Hip (around)

Around the fullest part of the hip and bum. Stand with feet together. This determines bottom-pant sizing.

5. Shoulder width

From the bone at one shoulder to the bone at the other shoulder, measured across the back. Friend's help required.

6. Sleeve length

From the shoulder bone down the outside of the arm to where you want the sleeve to end:

• Short sleeve: to mid-bicep.
• 3/4 sleeve: to mid-forearm (between elbow and wrist).
• Full sleeve: to the wrist bone.

7. Bicep circumference

Around the fullest part of the upper arm. Critical for fitted sleeves.

8. Wrist circumference

Around the wrist where you want the sleeve to end. Critical for churidar cuffs and fitted sleeve cuffs.

9. Kurta length

From the high point of the shoulder (where neck meets shoulder) down the front of the body to where you want the kurta to end:

• Short kurta: knee or just above.
• Medium kurta: mid-calf (NOT recommended, see body type guides).
• Long kurta: ankle.
• Anarkali: floor-grazing (1 inch off floor).

Additional measurements for specific silhouettes

For salwar/palazzo/sharara

• Pant length: From waist down the outside of the leg to where you want the pant to end. Standard is ankle bone for churidar, just above floor for palazzo.
• Inseam: From crotch down to where you want the pant to end. Critical for trouser-style silhouettes.
• Thigh circumference: Around the fullest part of the thigh.
• Knee circumference: For sharara/gharara sets where the flare starts at the knee.
• Ankle: For churidar bunching at the ankle.

For Anarkali / floor-length

• Height (full): Heel to top of head.
• Shoulder-to-floor measurement: more accurate than kurta length for floor-grazing pieces.

For sari blouse

• Front length: Top of shoulder to where you want the blouse to end (usually 14-15 inches).
• Back length: Usually 1-2 inches shorter than front.
• Across back: Width across the back, not all the way around.
• Across front: Width across the front, shoulder-to-shoulder under the bust.

How much fabric to order

Piece	Standard fabric needed	Plus-size / tall (add)
Short kurta (knee-length)	1.5 - 1.75 m	+ 0.5 m
Long kurta / Anarkali (floor-length)	2.5 - 3 m	+ 0.5 m
Churidar pants	2 m	+ 0.25 m
Palazzo pants	2.5 m	+ 0.5 m
Sharara (one leg)	3 - 4 m total	+ 0.5 m
Dupatta	2.5 m	+ 0.5 m

Always order 5-10% more than you calculate. Mistakes happen; pattern matching across pieces requires extra; and you cannot fix "not enough fabric" easily.

How to brief your tailor

Write the brief clearly. Don't rely on verbal explanation:

1. State the final piece type (Anarkali / straight kurta / sharara set).
2. Note the silhouette preferences (fitted bodice, flared from waist, 3/4 sleeves, full back).
3. Provide all 9 standard measurements.
4. Add specific silhouette measurements.
5. Specify lining (yes/no for kurta, definitely yes for choli).
6. Specify any embellishment notes (avoid X area, embroidery at Y area).
7. Show photos of similar pieces you've seen worn correctly.
8. Schedule a first-fitting at 50% completion — ALWAYS.

The most important tailor advice

Get a first-fitting before the tailor finishes the piece. A 30-minute trip back saves you from finding out the bodice is too tight when the piece is delivered. The tailor will charge slightly more for two fittings, but it is always worth it.

Building your unstitched suit collection at RoyalChicByPriti

• Mul Chanderi unstitched — light and easy to tailor.
• Silk unstitched — needs experienced tailor for cutting.
• Chanderi unstitched — versatile fabric for most silhouettes.

Continue reading: Petite frames guide, Plus-size guide, Tall women guide.